The Great American Vacation

It started with a toothache. 

For Christmas, my parents got me the greatest gift a PCV can get (besides Western food, a cold glass of good beer and a long hot shower): a trip back to America for the holidays.  I planned to leave a day early in order to be sure to catch my flight and then it happened:  I had to go to the dentist.  I always have to go to the dentist.  Because of this I had to go into Phnom Penh a day earlier than planned. 

Imagine you have spent the last year and a half in a third world village and you were looking forward not only to seeing  your family and friends, but celebrating the holidays with them amidst snow and Christmas and first world food.  Imagine you had been looking forward to this trip, had packed to a T and were ready to jet set back home for a vacation. 

Now imagine the worst possible thing that could happen.

It doesn’t take a genius to figure out what happens next: I was robbed. Again.

This time they got my passport.

I was on my way to the dentist at 8:30am and wearing a money belt so all they got were things that I expressly needed to get out of the country: money, access to money, and my passport. 

I remember curling up, sitting on the ground as I sobbed into the phone, “They have my passport, I’m supposed to go to America tomorrow!” while attempting to relay what had happened to the Safety and Security Officer.  It was Saturday morning, my flight was Sunday night.  The embassy was closed and so was the Peace Corps office. 

In a few minutes, Khmer people surrounded me and someone located a policeman.  They must have chosen a spokesperson who could speak English because a man sat down next to me and asked me some questions.  I surprised everyone by answering in a mixture of Khmer and English – one language wouldn’t satisfy me at this point.  I could barely think in English so there was no way this would get done in Khmer. 

One of the boys on a bicycle had come over and offered his opinion.  He told me that the men on the moto had followed me for minutes, maybe even from my guesthouse (I had been walking for about half an hour), waiting for the moment when I was distracted or careless to snatch my belongings from my body. 

Which was great because that’s exactly what a girl alone who just got robbed wants to hear: that she’s stalked prey. 

Just in time, my guardian angel arrived in the form of another PCV, Christin.  She helped me get to the police station, file a report, and figure out all things that were necessary for me to do in order to get out of the country the following day. Without my passport. 

When a Volunteer officially joins Peace Corps, they send in their passport and receive separate one – we call it a “Peace Corps Passport” and the original one a “Tourist Passport” so I wasn’t as lost as a tourist might have been because I actually had a passport to leave. The problem was that all of my visas making my stay in Cambodia legal were in the stolen passport.  So if I tried to leave the country with a passport that I didn’t arrive with, there would be no entrance stamp, and if there was no entrance stamp, Cambodian police might wonder how I got into the country, when, why, what I had been doing, and all sorts of questions that I don’t have enough Khmer for. 

Luckily Peace Corps really came through for me, pulled out all the stops, and managed to get me out of the country on my original flight.  Which, in the end, is what really matters, right?

I remember sitting on the plane in Phnom Penh about midnight that Sunday night after what may well go down in my history as the worst weekend of my Cambodia experience (and I am generally an optimist) and wondering if I was dreaming.  I did.  I sat there and wondered if it was real life that after what had happened that I was actually going to get back to the States for the holidays.  There is a very small part of me that still thinks my visit home was an extensive daydream. 

Getting back to America was overwhelming, to say the least.  It was a mishmash of a million different emotions all at once: comfort and change chief among them.  My sister picked me up from the airport and as we were heading out of the parking lot, I commented on her hair.  Our exchange went like this:

“Oh, I like your hair, did you get a haircut?”

“No.”

“…in the last year and a half?”

“Haha, well yea.”

“Ok then, I like your hair!”

That car ride to vacation set the stage for the reverse culture shock that I was about to experience.  Perhaps, on second thought, just the realization that I was over a year behind everything that was going on was what really happened.  I think that on some level, all Volunteers, though we know that life goes on, have this small idea in our heads that the life we traded when we left America for two years freezes and waits for us until we return.  It isn't until we encounter the remains of the lives we left behind for our own grand adventure, that we realize just how far away we really are.  

I never before realized just how much I missed sports until I got back and was able to watch literally any sport I wanted on a couple hundred different channels.  Football, basketball, hockey, O my! Am I even that big of a football fan? Who cares, sports! Give me any team playing any other team and I will be super content.  I even got to see the Bulls and the Blackhawks play at the United Center while I was home (Thanks, superfamily!) Nothing beats live sports, especially when they have been seriously absent from your life for over a year. 

And then there were the social situations, the incredibly awkward social situations.  I am kind of a socially awkward person anyway, and my distance from American culture for the last year and a half hasn’t lent anything in terms of cures to this predicament.  I remember sitting with a few friends at lunch one afternoon listening to them talk about a bunch of different random things, mostly involving pop culture – a reasonable lunchtime conversation.  As I sat at the table and listened to people, I realized that I had no idea what they were talking about it.  It was incredible.  And not only that, I wanted to ask what seemed like very dumb questions probably showing them just how out of the loop I was.  For example, hashtags on TV shows - that's a thing now! Was it when I left? Hashtags are all over TV. And then there's the music - everything on the radio was new to me, and all of the artists were new as well.  I remember texting a friend about all of this new music I saw on TV New Year's Eve.  "Who was it?" he asked, and I responded, "I don't know but they kept singing 'safe and sound' over and over so I assume that's the name of the song." Yea. That song* is huge in America.  You know who it is. 

I was torn, too, regarding my own Peace Corps life, suddenly far away itself.  Generally, when I talk to friends and family back home, they inquire about my host family and any new projects and then we move on to American life and general catching up.  Talking about village life, for me, is kind of like this: you know how when you're in class, studying something really intensely, and then you go home after class or whatever and the last thing you want to do is talk about that class?  I've been in class for a year and a half already, 24/7.  Can we talk about something else?  But then again I was torn - yes, please let me tell you about my awesome host family, did I mention I have photos *pull out about a few photo books of my host mom and Khmer brothers*? By the way I am starting this new project, any ideas on how to improve it?  

It's hard to continue a conversation when someone asks me, "What is Cambodia like?" or "Tell me everything about village life!"

Really? Do you have about a year to listen? Can you rephrase your question and be a bit more vague?  

But even those are ridiculous thoughts - my friends and other people I met were genuinely interested in what was going on, hearing about differences and similarities, finding out how people on the other side of the world live, they just didn't know what questions to ask, or how to get to what they really wanted to hear about.  

But enough complaining about the best vacation ever - because it really was just that.  I got to see friends and family, stuff myself silly with delicious food, enjoy hot showers and cold beers (not simultaneously), and even skiing and snow-playing.  Nothing beats Christmas morning with the family or drinks with my brothers and sisters.  

Then I got back to Cambodia and re-assimilated right back into Khmer life. Because really, I am where I am supposed to be.  And America life will be there for me when I come back after this stint, more prepared to reintegrate.  See you again, USA, in about 6 months.  Get excited. 

xo-Amanda

*Safe & Sound by Capital Cities

China and Cambodia

     As much of a history nerd as I am, most of my interest lies in the more ancient of histories and centers primarily on the Western world (think ancient Greco-Roman), and if you are going to quiz me on my history knowledge, try and remember that my main historical interest lies in warfare.  When I was growing up I would go through what I call, “history phases” during which I would get super into one particular epoch of history for a little while, say a year or so, just gobbling up as much information about that historical period as I could before I eventually got tired of it or wore out all of my resources and moved on to a new historical period.  Most notable were my Revolutionary War phases (4^th grade, 6^th grade, and again in high school), my Civil War phase (5^th grade-8^th grade) and my Henry VIII phase (which was really more like my Henry VIII’s Six Wives phase which lasted the longest and carried on into my Elizabeth I phase).  You know how when you are looking things up on the internet, say Wikipedia which has all of these convenient links that let you just jump from page to page and acquire knowledge about albino models when you started with search words “Apple Inc.”, and three hours after you start you realize that you have been looking at Game of Thrones characters when you started with “Peace Corps grants”? That’s how history and I are.  So when in grade school I fell into a Chinese history phase, I made it through one book about medieval Middle Kingdom and then was pulled into the California gold rush.  That and seeing “Made in China” on a lot of my toys was about as much as I was exposed to anything about the closed and mysterious country that occupies a large portion of the Asian continent, and I think I had a pretty well-rounded education.  So before I traveled to the wondrous country that produces 19% of the world’s population and with limited internet access and electricity that is the fact of my site, I did as much researching into China and Chinese history as I could stomach.  And let me tell you, China is pretty amazing. 

     However, while history books perpetually keep me occupied like a kid on a computer game, and though I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the more historical aspects of the super old Beijing, it was cultural and personal facets of my Chinese trip that I noticed more.  Maybe it was due to the fact that I live in an Asian culture right now, or maybe it was because Cambodian culture has been influenced by Chinese culture – whatever the reason, I took in more cultural types of characteristics of China while I was there, more so than I have with other cultures like Greek (OMYGOSH now if you want to study ancient history, that is the place to go! And yes, I went there.)

     Even as I admit that my favorite part of my China vacation was seeing my parents, it did give me an opportunity to experience a culture that has a bit of influence on the one I am currently entangled in. Granted, since we were on a tour we went places that the tour company had decided upon (likely influenced by the all-seeing government), and witnessing “authentic” Chinese culture was not really on the menu.  Instead we visited places (photos posted in previous blog) of historical significance, modern marvels, and natural phenomenons.  Most of what we saw was pretty well known throughout the rest of the world, famous or infamous or what-have-you.  Though the guides we had were super funny and very entertaining, what was most interesting was what they told between stories of cultural magnificence, and while I couldn't help but gaze in wonder  at the enormity of the Forbidden City or the splendor of the Chinese countryside from the top of the Great Wall, the most interesting aspects of my trip were times like seeing Chinese Buddhist monks walk by with different colored robes on than Cambodian Buddhist monks, or noticing the distinct lack of children playing on the streets when I am used to seeing children everywhere in my village. 

     China and Cambodia have a long intertwined history, one that I don’t really understand well enough to try and write about on this blog and sound credible.  Most of what I know about this relationship has been told to me by Khmer people in Khmer, so even then I might have misheard or missed unknown words between the words that I do know during long but simple conversations.  I do celebrate Chinese New Year with my host family, and go to the Wat with them for religious festivals.  I have also been told by Khmer people that I look more Chinese-Khmer than just Khmer alone (which is a compliment of sorts because Khmer people consider Chinese to be very beautiful).  And while I am certain that there is significant economical and historical significance in Chinese influence on Cambodia, it hasn’t yet tempted me to read long articles on this relationship or delve into the mysteries of a Chinese-Khmer culture. 

There were some similarities that I found interesting, and even more striking (as they always are) were the differences. 

     The whole world knows about China’s One Child Policy which, due to the booming population, restricts couples to having one child and being limited in other opportunities should more than one child be born.  This policy was never actually written into law (check out this site where I got my facts or Wikipedia, of course), but was put into effect in 1979 due to some serious social and economic problems based on China’s incredible population growth.  It focuses on delayed marriage and child bearing, fewer and healthier births, and one child per couple.  Sidenote: my mother and I were curious about cases of twins so we asked a guide and he told us it was technically “one birth” so if a couple had twins they didn’t have to pick their favorite and get rid of the other one.  However couples are at a disadvantage when they have more than one child so it was ideal to just have one.  Recently, the Chinese government has noticed certain social and economic problems arising from their solution to previous social and economic problems in the form of an aging population and a serious gender imbalance, to give a few examples, and so have come up with a policy that allows couples who pass certain requirements (they are an only child themselves, for example) to have a second child. 

     Growing up in a family with 4 siblings myself and countless cousins (well OK, I can count them but we are getting more and more all the time so what’s the point?) due to the fact that my father is the oldest of 8 and my mother has 2 brothers herself, I cannot even imagine what being an “only child” is like.  Even though I have friends without siblings it is still difficult for me to understand.  Siblings are so great; built-in playmates, forever best friends, they have to love you even if they don’t like you, etc.  I guess that is just my view though, so please continue with whatever thoughts you have of your own siblings.  My point is that it is a hard concept to grasp for one so encircled as I am with family.  Even in Cambodia, I have two little host brothers who are my best friends in my village – possibly because we have the same language abilities and most of our communication is done via Avengers games and me giving them candy, but whatever.  Siblings are the best.

     Due in part to Cambodia’s recent Khmer Rouge history in which about a third of the populace was slaughtered, a large part of the current Khmer population is very young.  Working in the health center with pregnant women, it is even easier for me to see the boom happening that results in children everywhere in my village.  Not just that, they are everywhere in cities too.  All the time and everywhere I go here, I see children playing, children on their way to school, children this and children that, they are really everywhere.  So it was especially striking to me that we didn’t see very many in China.  Of course, there are a million and one reasons why we wouldn’t see any including the fact that we went to many tourist places and they were probably in school, but just the difference coming from a kid-laden country to what seemed to me sometimes as a kid-free one, it was something I really noticed. 

     Something that was impossible to ignore was the food. Obviously. If you know anything about Chinese food you probably know that Panda Express is not “genuine” Chinese food.  Delicious, yes. Chinese, no.  We were able to have “traditional” Chinese food prepared by a village family once during the trip and not surprisingly, it was absolutely delicious, nothing like Chinese takeout, and considerably similar to Khmer food that I eat every night in my village.  We were also fed Chinese takeout-like food on the tour except it was not as good as Panda.  One night, sitting around a large table full of this kind of food, one of the members of the tour asked me if I ate anything like the takeout-like food before us on the table in Cambodia.  I said no, and then took a moment to consider the food on my plate.  It was exactly the same, except for the fact that the food before us was engulfed in sugary sauces (akin to the kind that covers orange chicken or sweet and sour sauce) whereas for dinner in my village, my host mom just gives me rice and veggies or meat -no sauce necessary.  What was interesting was that they kept serving us what is commonly accepted as “Chinese food” in America.  They could have served us the good stuff.  We were there for the experience, after all.  

     As with many great nations, mine included, Chinese culture is infused with a superb sense of national pride which was easy to see everywhere we went.  It wasn't just that the achievements were on display for us to see, but the Chinese people we saw and met with were every bit as in love with their country as I am in love with mine. And truly, Chinese people have a lot to be proud of from their ever expansive and incredible history to changes they are making now.  

xo-Amanda 

Destination: China

In November I was able to take a vacation and meet up with the Superparents in China.  It was a vacation for the books. 

We went with a tour group with great guides around to four different cities: Beijing, Souzhou, Hangzhou, and Shanghai for a total of about 10 days.  It was quite a change from the third world Cambodia I was used to...mostly because China has winter! 

We were able to see the Summer Palace (above)

Some of the older folks practiced their calligraphy by painting with large brushes and water on the ground.  It dried right up and they started all over again. 

This was one of my favs.  I can imagine a conversation between two builders: 

"What shape should we make the windows?" 

"...All of them!"

Tienanmen Square: the Square you have heard so much about...maybe.

It really is as big as they say.  

The Forbidden City was by far the largest complex I had ever seen in my entire life, and supposedly it housed only the royal family! Beyond gorgeous, though. 

The animals on the rooftops signified status, so only emperors could have this many animals while peasants and others might have only one or two.  I thought that was pretty interesting.  

One of my favorite parts of the trip was CLIMBING THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA!!!!

The view was truly amazing and how many people can say they have meandered along the Great Wall? In America, I mean.  

Dad was pretty happy we made it.  

And I took some of the best timed selfies EVER. Because when everyone you're with makes it to the top, says "Yay, we made it" and then heads back down...you know the right thing to do is to continue on by yourself.  I mean, it's the Great Wall of China!

We got to see the Bird's Nest from the Olympics,

the Temple of Heaven (who doesn't want to visit a place with a name like that?!)

And a randomly cool thing we saw was the residence of the recently deceased King of Cambodia, Sihanouk.  We were on the bus on the street when the tour guide pointed it out and I kind of gave a little gasp and realized that I was probably the only one who knew the history of the man who had lived there.  I tried to explain to the people around me on the bus but maybe you will have better luck if you Google it.  He was welcomed in China when he was deposed and gave up the crown a few separate times in his history.  I will dive a little bit more into this in a separate blog about Khmer history.  

We took a rickshaw around some of the older parts,

Where they gave us great deals.

And saw some moon doors!

A really cool trip was down a river in Souzhou where we were able to head to a "traditional market".  Upon arriving, I noticed how much bigger and cleaner it was than the market in my village in Cambodia!

And we also headed to a silk factory in Souzhou where we were able to observe how the silk thread is taken from cocoons.  

Family pics in gardens happened,

And we got advice from Confucius.  

Saw where famous Chinese tea was grown on a tea plantation,

and had a great view of Shanghai at night.  

We got to ride the fastest train in the world! 

which apparently could get up to speeds of 500km/hr given enough track...but due to the length of the track that was built, 431 km/hr was close to as fast as we got.

And so to finish this blog, I leave you with promises of comparison descriptions later, as well as these gems- which will show you how to dress if you are a tourist during a rainy day (of any country of your choosing), 

a perpetual thought to keep in your head:

the last place I visited in China: a lit market.  

and a rare but adorable sighting of a Chinese child. 

And I got to see the Superparents! Best vacation ever. 

Cheers,

xo-Amanda